Saturday, August 3, 2013
Ok... so again, it's been a while. To a point where I'm almost ashamed but what can I say- my life in wine is a busy one :). To make up for lost time, I have three wines to review. The wines are from Mendoza, Argentine- not usually a go-to region for me, but I really enjoyed these wines.
2011 Martino Semillon
I don't drink a ton of Semillon. This is not because I don't like it, it just tends to be a food wine for me. It can show a range of styles in the glass from light and crisp to dense and oily. Semillon accounts for only 2% of the white wine production in Mendoza, but after this wine, I'll definitely be on the hunt for more!
Nose: this is super fresh with fruit notes of apple and orange making the first appearance on the nose. The fruit is complimented by a waxy, honey aromas as well as lanolin and white flowers.
Palate: soft and round but light on its feet, the palate confirms the nose. Without a corner in site, the weight of this wine is kept in place by acidity that does it's job without you noticing. There's more apple and orange citrus delivered with such balance all you pay attention to is how refreshing this Semillon is! If you picture the soft roll of an oaked Chardonnay but the fresh fruit without the oak masking, you get this wine.
2011 Casa Marguery Malbec
Malbec- the Cab Sauv of the 2000s. I don't always go for Malbec either. This is because I prefer wines with good acid, lower alcohol and structured fruit. Again, not that Malbec can not achieve my picky standards, but it just tends to be a little too in-your-face for me. Give it 10 years and I'll usually be more open to it. THIS Malbec, on the other hand, is different. It's got some self-restraint.
Nose: This Malbec has a dark and dense nose of blackberry jam and mission fig. I also picked up spicy barrel char, damp soil and grilled white and green pepper with a touch of balsamic vinegar.
Palate: Not shy at all, this brooding Malbec is earthy with more black fruit, coffee and black licorice. This wine is all about texture, baby- there's tannin here but it's soft and smooth from beginning to end. This is definitely a reserved Malbec if I've ever had one- it politely shows its character but with balance and a gentle hand. The acid and tannin keep the fruit in check without causing an interruption in flavor. This is full bodied enough for those who like a kick but does not have the screaming alcohol that can accompany some full-bodied, hot climate reds.
2004 Carmelo Patti Gran Assemblage- Cabernet, Malbec, Merlot & Cab Franc blend
My wine mentor has taught me to always get excited when you see a Carmelo Patti label. For those new to his label, look him up! He's one of the OG's of Mendoza. He's been making wines in the area since the 1980s in Lujan de Cuyo and helped to define Mendoza as a place to find quality wines. His wines show a more lean and Bordeaux-like style where earth and minerals lead the palate and fruit is lucky if it's given a supporting role. His wines have a style that show old-world techniques in a new world region. Patti still runs the brunt of his operation himself and if you were to go taste at his winery, he'd be the one to open the door and poor the wine- there's no corporate investment or humongous tasting room that reflects the deep pockets of foreign funding. What I love about him? He hordes his wines and does not release them until he sees fit. 4-5 years down the road is when he releases his wares, forcing thirsty winos to be patient for the big pay-off. For some reason I have this innate dislike of young wines- or I suppose the idea of opening them. I like the idea of waiting for something to mature and show you the whole experience instead of the instant gratification of opening young bottles. In a world where we want it all immediately, it's nice to wait every once in a while. You wouldn't pull a caterpillar out of the cocoon a week early- why do the same to a wine?
Nose: this blend is so not-your-modern day Argentinian red- you know this is old school! the nose shows intense rusty mineral notes, dry anise and funky charcuterie. There's a little hint of brett (barnyard-y funk), black and green pepper that fight to be noticed but blue fruit (which I usually associate with Bondarda) takes the front seat.
Palate: really soft and lean, the dense dark fruit is met with a barrage of minerals. Every shade of the soil is present on this palate with damp forest floor, dry red dust and the mineral-driven acidity being the life-line of the wine. Tannins make an appearance, but are paper thin.
On day two this wine is just as intense with oxidized molasses and sweet black licorice. The nose offers the suggestion of heat (high alcohol) but it's nowhere on the palate.
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