Well, I have the weekend off and the weather calls for 80 mile an hour winds through the weekend. It only makes sense to drink a bottle of wine throughout the day and take a few notes on it. Good plan, I say.
I was delighted to see this wine show back in the AK market. Cellar Bottle Shoppe carried a previous vintage for a wine club about a year and a half ago and I never saw it after that. Thanks to Stellar Wines for bringing it back.
As much as I say I'm picky about Chardonnay, I'm even pickier (or more judgmental) about American wines... I can't help it- it's almost embedded in the serious wine drinker mind (or written in our secret credo). SOME American producers (you know who you are) make a product that doesn't speak of its origins, dominates the fruit with tons of oak and kill the palate with 15+ percent alcohol. That's how you know your wine interest goes beyond enjoying a glass- when you find yourself thinking, "Gosh, this would be great if there wasn't so much alcohol in my alcohol". Not to say Old World producers aren't guilty of the aforementioned crimes... I'm just harsh on my own kind.
Anyway, that being said, I love this Sangiovese. The same grape used for Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino in Italy, this grape found its home in California back in the 19th century from wonderful Italian immigrants who came to our neck of the woods to make some wine and a life. The nose of this wine is recognizably Sangio. Red flowers, dried blood orange skin, dried berries and a hint of fresh tomato. Noceto's expression has this underlying dark base that carries through the nose but allows the lighter aromas listed above to be the first thing you pick up. The dark flavors of mission fig, black pepper and black licorice create the perfect foundation for this velvety red. Despite being a California wine, the nose pays homage to the Old World with the brightness of Chianti Classico and the dark power of Brunello. If Fall had a fragrance it would be this wine. The fruit and spice components are a perfect example of the combination of the smells of changing leaves and Autumn cooking ingredients like spices, pumpkins, red apples and squash. It makes me think of Thanksgiving and it's only September. Going back to this wine a couple hours later, it has become much more perfume-y and herbal- lots of flowers, face powder (the kind your grandmother wore), anise and dried thyme.
The palate is just as pleasing. You're greeted with that bright Sangio fruit and acid that elevates aromas of flowers, dried cranberry and Bing cherry. The mid-palate transitions into darker flavors of that same mission fig and very apparent black licorice and dark chocolate. The texture is very soft and drinkable due to a kiss of oak that certain California smoothness. Noceto oaks this wine, but I love how they refrain from oaking the grape expression away. The thin, taught tannin of Sangiovese is still offering its structure but is a bit tamed from the barrel. I want to say they use French Oak with a medium char but the spice and herbal character on this wine makes me lean towards some American in there too (their site does not specify). The tannin gives way and allows acid to finish the ride (a Sangiovese trait) but it's gentle in its approach and doesn't leave you with a mouthful of extra saliva. Every component seems to be in place here and I find it to be quite well balanced. I find it exciting to see that in younger wines, as I would pin this around 2008 or so in a blind tasting. It drinks beyond it's years and is in no rush to show you everything it has. If you give this wine the time to open up its really mellow and enjoyable with plenty to smell and taste.
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